Photo Editor

No — every edit happens locally in your browser using the canvas API; the photo file itself never leaves your device.

Crop (with 1:1/4:3/16:9/9:16 presets or free-form), straighten a tilted photo, rotate and flip, resize to an exact width and height, one-click Auto-enhance plus a live histogram and a Curve tool for tonal control, adjust brightness/contrast/saturation/hue/blur plus pro tools (levels, exposure, vibrance, sharpen, vignette), apply one-click filters (Vivid, B&W, Vintage, Cool, Warm, Fade, Noir, Golden), draw freehand with a brush (with its own opacity and hardness sliders) or eraser, pick colors from a shared Recent/Saved palette, add movable/editable text (12 fonts, with line height, letter spacing, arc/curve, an optional outline, and a drop shadow) and shapes (rectangle, ellipse, line, star, arrow) with a Solid, Linear gradient, Radial gradient, or repeating Dots/Stripes/Checkerboard Pattern fill, snap everything to an optional alignment grid or draggable guide lines, select part of the photo with the Magic Wand (with feathering and an invert option), Marquee, or Lasso, add a non-destructive layer mask to any shape/text/image layer, jump to any point in your edit history from a clickable list, resize straight to a common social/export size with Canvas presets, stamp a text or logo-image watermark (single-placed or tiled across the whole photo) and/or a solid/double/rounded/polaroid/film-strip/shadow frame onto downloads only, zoom in with keyboard shortcuts and pan around with Space-drag or the mini navigator/minimap, and reorder, duplicate, delete, or adjust the opacity/blend mode (16 blend modes, from Multiply and Screen to Hue and Luminosity) of any layer.

Yes — File, Edit, Image, Layer, Filter, View, and Window menus sit across the top, and reach the exact same tools as the toolbar and panels below them.

Turn on Fill shape, then pick a Fill style: Solid (one color), Linear gradient or Radial gradient (both blend from the shape's main color to a second "To" color — Linear across the shape, Radial out from its center), or Pattern, which repeats Dots, Stripes, or a Checkerboard using the main color and the "To" color, sized by the Scale slider. Set it before drawing in the shape tool's options, or change it any time afterward in the selected-layer panel — it always redraws live as you adjust it.

Linear blends smoothly from one corner of the shape to the opposite corner, in a straight line. Radial blends outward from the shape's center to its edge in a circle, more like a glow or spotlight. Both use the shape's main color as the starting color and the "To" color as the ending color.

Yes — enter a new width and height (with an optional locked aspect ratio) in the size bar above the canvas, and Resize scales the actual image to that exact pixel size.

It scales the photo up by just enough to fully cover the frame again at whatever angle you've set, then crops to that — the same approach a dedicated straighten tool in a desktop editor uses. Drag the slider for a live preview; nothing is baked into the photo until you click Apply.

Yes — select a text layer and turn on Outline (with its own color and width) and/or Shadow (color and blur amount) in the selected-layer panel. Both are off by default so existing text looks unchanged until you turn them on.

Yes — the Curve slider in a text layer's Typography section bends the line along a circular arc, positive for an upward arch and negative for a downward bow. It's 0 (straight) by default, and works alongside line height and letter spacing, which are also adjustable per text layer.

It reads your photo's own histogram and sets the black point, white point, and exposure to use its full tonal range, plus a moderate vibrance boost — all in one click. It's a starting point, not a final answer: every slider it touches (and the ones it doesn't, like Contrast or the Curve tool) stays fully adjustable afterward, and it never touches your text, shapes, or drawing layers.

A live graph of how many pixels in your current photo fall at each brightness level, split into red, green, and blue. A spike jammed against the left or right edge means you're clipping shadows or highlights — the Levels black/white points or the Curve tool can pull that detail back. It updates in real time as you edit, reflecting the exact image you'd export at that moment.

Levels, Exposure, and the other sliders each move one thing uniformly across the whole photo. The Curve tool lets you drag a single point to brighten or darken one tonal range — say, just the shadows — while leaving the rest of the curve anchored at black and white, which the sliders alone can't do. Reset curve returns it to a straight (no-op) line.

Toggles an on-screen alignment grid (10/20/40/80px spacing) and snaps new or moved shapes, text, and images to it — press G to toggle it without reaching for the mouse. It's a screen-only guide: it never appears in the downloaded photo, and it doesn't affect freehand brush strokes.

+H guide and +V guide (in the toolbar, or the View menu) drop a horizontal or vertical line onto the canvas that new or moved shapes, text, and images snap to — handy for lining things up at an exact spot the grid's fixed spacing doesn't hit. Drag a guide to reposition it, double-click it or drag it off the photo to remove it, or use Clear to remove them all at once. Like the grid, they're screen-only and never appear in the downloaded photo.

The dropdown next to the width/height fields resizes the photo straight to a common export size in one click — Instagram post/portrait/story, Facebook, X/Twitter, YouTube thumbnail, LinkedIn, or Pinterest. It resizes exactly like the W/H fields and Resize button next to it (so a photo whose aspect ratio doesn't already match will be stretched to fit) — crop to the matching aspect ratio first if you want the result undistorted.

Yes — File → Watermark… lets you turn on a text watermark (your name, site, or handle) or switch to your own logo image, with a choice of corner or center placement (or Tile it repeatedly across the whole photo), color (text only), size, an adjustable margin from the edge, and opacity. It's applied only at the moment you download or save, never to the photo you're actively editing, so it's easy to preview your work without the watermark in the way and just as easy to turn off again.

Yes — in File → Watermark…, switch the mode to Logo image and choose an image file (PNG, JPEG, or WebP); it's read entirely in your browser and never uploaded anywhere, same as your photo. It scales proportionally as a percentage of the photo's width via the Size slider, and can be placed in a corner/center or tiled across the whole photo just like the text watermark.

Turns on a repeating, angled watermark pattern across the entire photo — the same style you'll see protecting preview images on stock photo sites — instead of one instance in a single corner. Available for both the text and logo image watermark; turning it on hides the single-position controls (Position, Margin) since they no longer apply.

Yes — File → Frame/Border… offers a Solid color border, a two-color Double border (separate outer and inner colors/widths), Rounded corners, a Polaroid frame (with an optional caption underneath), a Film strip frame with punched sprocket holes along the top and bottom, and a Shadow style that pads the photo onto a background color with a soft drop shadow for a "floating card" look. It shows live on the canvas as you configure it, and any of these can be combined with a watermark, which lands in the corner of the final framed image, not the original photo underneath it.

Solid border, Double border, Polaroid, Film strip, and Shadow all add real pixels around the photo, so the downloaded file is larger than the canvas you're editing (e.g. a 24px-wide solid border adds 48px to both width and height). Rounded corners is the exception — it doesn't add any padding, it just clips the photo's own corners.

Yes — the History tab (next to Layers) lists every edit you've made in order; click any entry to jump straight there. It's the same undo/redo stack Ctrl+Z and Ctrl+Y already step through, just with every past state visible and clickable at once.

Click any spot and it selects that color and everything touching it within your Tolerance setting — turn on "Select all matching colors" to grab every matching pixel in the photo instead, even if it's not touching (handy for picking every instance of a scattered color). Feather softens the selection's edge by however many pixels you set, so Clear fades out gradually instead of leaving a hard cutout line. Invert selection flips it to everything you didn't select — click a plain background, Invert, then Clear to cut out a busy subject in two steps instead of tracing it by hand.

A way to hide or reveal part of a shape, text, or image layer without touching its actual pixels — add one from the selected-layer panel, then paint with Hide or Reveal brushes. It can always be repainted, inverted, or deleted later, and never affects the photo underneath. (Freehand brush/eraser strokes don't get a mask option, since the eraser tool already edits those directly.)

Yes — check two or more layers in the Layers panel and click Group selected to fold them into a named, collapsible folder. Clicking any grouped layer on the canvas selects and moves the whole group together, and hiding or locking a group hides or locks every layer inside it without touching each one's own setting. Ungroup returns the layers to the top level; deleting a group removes it and everything inside.

Opacity sets how see-through a new stroke is as you draw it — 100% is fully solid, lower values let the photo underneath show through. Hardness softens the stroke's edge — 100% is a crisp, hard-edged line (the same as before these sliders existed), while lower values feather it into a soft, airbrush-like edge. Both apply to new strokes only; they don't change ones you've already drawn.

It shows on the Brush, Shape, and Eyedropper panels, and it's the same palette everywhere — click any swatch to set it as the current color across all three. Recent fills in automatically as you pick colors and resets each time you open the editor; Saved is a deliberate favorites list (click the + button to add the current color) that's remembered the next time you come back.

Yes — every layer (and every group) has its own eye and lock icon right in the Layers panel. A hidden layer disappears from both the canvas and the exported image until shown again; a locked layer can't be moved, edited, or deleted from the canvas, though you can still select it in the panel to unlock it.

Yes — double-click any layer or group's name in the Layers panel to edit it inline; press Enter to save or Escape to cancel.

Yes — V select, W magic wand, M marquee, L lasso, I eyedropper, C crop, B brush, E eraser, T text, R rectangle, O ellipse, K line, S star, A arrow, plus G for grid, Ctrl/Cmd+Z/Y for undo/redo, Ctrl/Cmd+X/C/V for cut/copy/paste, and Delete for the selected layer. Ctrl/Cmd+X is context-aware — it cuts the active marquee or lasso pixel selection if one is in progress, otherwise it cuts the selected layer. Every menu item that has a shortcut shows it right in the dropdown (Edit and Layer menus), and each toolbar button also shows its letter in its tooltip.

Yes — full undo/redo (also Ctrl+Z / Ctrl+Y), plus a one-click Reset back to your original upload.

PNG or JPEG, with an adjustable quality slider for JPEG so you can trade quality for a smaller file.

Yes — the tool rail switches to a horizontal layout and the side panel moves below the canvas on small screens, and touch dragging works throughout.

Use the − / + buttons or Fit next to the zoom percentage, or the keyboard shortcuts Ctrl/Cmd+= to zoom in, Ctrl/Cmd+- to zoom out, and Ctrl/Cmd+0 to fit the whole photo to the window. Once you're zoomed in past what fits on screen, hold the Space bar and drag to pan around — the cursor turns into a hand to show panning is active — without needing to switch away from whatever tool you're using.

That's the navigator — a mini overview of the whole photo with a highlighted rectangle showing exactly what's currently visible. It only appears once you're zoomed in enough that the photo no longer fully fits on screen; click or drag anywhere inside it to jump the main view straight to that spot, which is often faster than scrolling or panning there by hand.